My experience of Hontanas was a little different and yet I can identify with this description from the 1670s*:
It is "small, wretched and poor. There are ten or a dozen huts, roofed with straw, that look like winter refuges from the snow though they are occupied by shepherds. They have a strong palisade round the huts to guard against wolves which come at night to attack them . . . There are so many of them that you see them in packs, like flocks of sheep, both in the daytime and at night. So wherever you want to cross this desert you must do it in the middle of the day when the shepherds are out with their huge dogs."
It has been a few years since that was written. I've not seen any wolves, but the sheep dogs are as huge as ever.
*See Gitlitz and Davidson, The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago (2000: 201).
Join Mark and Vicki for a Mediterranean experience in October, 2018. We'll be cruising aboard the luxurious Celebrity Reflection. See the link here for details. Onboard lectures will provide focus as we visit the ports of Malta, Rhodes, Santorini, and Athens among others. An optional add-on visit to Rome is possible on either end of the trip.