A stranger walks into a bar

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Just off of the Plaza de Castello in Pamplona is a cafe and bar known as the Iruña. It wears the 19th century comfortably with all its tiles, wood, and faux moulding, even if a little worn. It is a place to smoke, play cards, talk bullfighting, drink a cerveza, or, on this day, watch the World Cup.

As I entered, the bartender was busy with his back to me.

I caught the eye of one customer though. He stood quietly, leaning back on one foot. He didn't move. He was bronze. He was Ernest Hemingway. The Iruña, just down the street from the bull ring, was his place. 

"Papa," I smiled and said. "Tell me about the porta gayola."

Buen caminó!


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Join Mark and Vicki for a Mediterranean experience in October, 2018. We'll be cruising aboard the luxurious Celebrity Reflection. See the link here for details. Onboard lectures will provide focus as we visit the ports of Malta, Rhodes, Santorini, and Athens among others. An optional add-on visit to Rome is possible on either end of the trip.