This is the Spain you never heard about. It is old and earthy and green and has the feeling of something Irish, or maybe something out of a Tolkien universe. On cue, the sound of a bagpipe and penny whistle drifts through the door.
The grape farmer asked if we were pilgrims bound for Nájera. We affirmed the obvious.
"Do you know the story of the Camino?" His English was stained but it was clear enough.
Bob and I had notions, but we welcomed his company. We also welcomed the conversation that his question set in motion.
“No. Tell us.”
The story of the end of James the Great is described in the New Testament. Outside the New Testament, however, his story lives on. Part of that story is dedicated to a epic journey that the Bible is mum about, and part of that story is dedicated to a post-death appearance. Both of these accounts teeter wildly into the area of myth, but never say that to a Spaniard. It may cost you an eye.