The descent into Spain is rugged. The bright pastures of the sommets des pyrénées slip downslope, gradually at first, then furiously, precipitously, until they tumble into dense beech forests. Bob and I do the same. Spattered by mud, decorated with leaves, and swathed in shadow, we appreciate the epic Song of Roland.
The grape farmer asked if we were pilgrims bound for Nájera. We affirmed the obvious.
"Do you know the story of the Camino?" His English was stained but it was clear enough.
Bob and I had notions, but we welcomed his company. We also welcomed the conversation that his question set in motion.
“No. Tell us.”
The story of the end of James the Great is described in the New Testament. Outside the New Testament, however, his story lives on. Part of that story is dedicated to a epic journey that the Bible is mum about, and part of that story is dedicated to a post-death appearance. Both of these accounts teeter wildly into the area of myth, but never say that to a Spaniard. It may cost you an eye.