The Road to the Rim: Entering Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area

The passage through Lodoare Gate.

The passage through Lodoare Gate.

The air was brisk that morning but Vicki cracked the window anyway. Her curls, ever ready to riot, seized upon the opportunity. They danced in the wind like the tendrils that dangle from a weaver-bird nest.

I leaned back. My window was closed.

We sat on opposite sides of the rig but within reach of the safety bar that ran behind the driver’s seat. Mr Nixon gripped the steering wheel with his right hand and ran through the gears with his left. Despite the fact that she was engineered for slow grinds, TIK growled some.

We were already a mile high, galumphing through a landscape of morning mist and rainforest. Moss-draperies hung low, brushing the road as we climbed toward one of the most spectacular Tanzania safari destinations on Earth.

Image courtesy of Google Earth.

Image courtesy of Google Earth.

Navigating Lodoare Gate: The Gateway to Adventure

Abruptly, the forest corridor opened into a paved lot. TIK slowed, pulling in between other knobby-tyred safari vehicles. "This might take a bit," Mr. Nixon, our driver, noted. "Roll up the windows, please."

We assumed the warning was about thieves. We didn’t realize until later that the most serious criminals at Lodoare Gate drop from the trees. To a baboon, a safari rig is just a treasure box, and they know exactly what a picnic basket looks like.

Exploring the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA)

Lodoare Gate is the primary portal to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA), a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the highlands of northern Tanzania. This protected area is legendary for two reasons:

  • The Ngorongoro Crater: Famous for the highest density of African wildlife in the region.

  • Oldupai (Olduvai) Gorge: A world-renowned archaeological site often called the "Cradle of Mankind."

Passing through requires a hefty Tanzania park permit fee and a "Byzantine" process of paperwork. While Mr. Nixon tackled the office bureaucracy, we explored the facilities designed for the half-million tourists who pass through annually.

Signboards illustrate theories of landscape formation in the NCA.

Signboards illustrate theories of landscape formation in the NCA.

A Must-See: The Ngorongoro Interpretive Center

If you find yourself waiting at the gate, the interpretive center is a must-see. It covers the local ecology, ethnography, and the unique geography of the Great Rift Valley. I found the 3-D models and schematics fascinating—a perfect primer for the safari adventure that lay ahead.

With permits finally in hand, we climbed back into TIK and rolled through the gate. The rim of the Ngorongoro Crater loomed ahead in the mist, another two thousand feet of climbing between us and the view of a lifetime.


*See statistics from 2018 here.


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Christmas gifts come in many sizes and shapes. If you are looking for something unique, consider giving the gift of experience. Memories last a lifetime!

Travel with Bible Land Explorer to Europe, Southwest Asia, or Africa in the year to come. Future opportunities include archaeological tours in Israel/Palestine, a Mediterranean cruise, or an African safari. Find a list of future opportunities here or email me at markziese@gmail.com.