The Serengeti and Beyond: Starting an 8-Day Northern Circuit Safari in Tanzania

Mr. Saif arrived with the good news: “Vicki’s bag is at the airport. A driver is bringing it now.”

We looked at each other in disbelief. After the chaos at O’Hare, Vicki had resigned herself to never seeing her luggage again.

The pool at Ilburu Safari Lodge is a focal point of the courtyard. The contrast between life inside the compound and life outside the compound could not be stronger.

The pool at Ilburu Safari Lodge is a focal point of the courtyard. The contrast between life inside the compound and life outside the compound could not be stronger.

At Ilboru Safari Lodge: Preparing for the Northern Circuit

The three of us sat poolside at Ilboru Safari Lodge as Mr. Saif reviewed our itinerary. He was there to introduce our driver and, thankfully, confirm that Vicki wouldn’t be molding in the same clothes for a week.

As for our itinerary, we would spend the next eight days exploring Tanzania’s famous Northern Circuit. Here lie some of the most famous wild places on the planet: Lake Manyara National Park, Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and the Serengeti National Park. It is big-sky and big-game country on an unrivaled scale.

Mr Saif ironed out the wrinkles upon our arrival.

Mr Saif ironed out the wrinkles upon our arrival.

As Mr. Saif talked us through the stops, the names sparked memories of everything I’d read. Hemingway called Lake Manyara the “loveliest in Africa.” Olduvai Gorge held its air of mystery, while the "endless plains" promised a chance to spot the "Big Five." Now that Vicki was reunited with her gear, we were truly ready.

It wasn’t a Land Rover, but this knobby-tyred beast had the look of a rig built for the backcountry.

It wasn’t a Land Rover, but this knobby-tyred beast had the look of a rig built for the backcountry.

Our Rugged Safari Companion: The Toyota-in-Khaki Land Cruiser

Mr. Saif’s phone rang. After a brief call, he smiled. “Your bag is here.”

We headed to the parking lot to meet Mr. Nixon, a veteran with over twenty years of safari experience. I was already impressed; I’d become even more so soon enough.

Behind him sat our Toyota Land Cruiser, bristling with knobby tires, push bars, a snorkel, and antennas, all decked out in Kandoo Adventure stickers. While I secretly wished for a zebra-striped Land Rover, I had to admit this wasn't Daktari,—and Vicki wasn't about to start roping rhinos anyway. Our “Toyota-in-Khaki” (TIK) would be our rugged home for the foreseeable future.

Safari-ready.

Safari-ready.

Exploring Tanzania’s Big Five in the Serengeti and Beyond

While we we still talking, the steel gate slid open and a small car entered. The driver pulled up to us and popped open the truck. There was Vicki’s bag!

Vicki excused herself and went back to change. When she reappeared, she looked as safari-ready as Karen Blixen.

We loaded up and waved goodbye to Mr Saif and Ilboru Safari Lodge.

Mr Nixon nosed TIK into the mud of the Arusha street.


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If you are a traveler, church leader, or educator who is interested in visiting Israel-Palestine (or Tanzania!), let me hear from you. I partner with faith-based groups to deliver outdoor academic experiences. Leaders receive the same perks that other agencies offer, at competitive prices and without the self-serving interests.

Right now we are building the passenger roster for an Israel excursion scheduled for March 17-28, 2020. Seats will be open until Thanksgiving. For a list of trips go to the link here or contact me at markziese@gmail.com.