Arusha meeting

Mr Saif carried in the good news: “Vicki’s bag arrived at the airport. A driver is bringing it now.”

We looked at each other in disbelief. After Vicki’s shuffle at Chicago O’Hare, she had parted ways with her bag and had resigned herself to never see it again.

The pool at Ilburu Safari Lodge is a focal point of the courtyard. The contrast between life inside the compound and life outside the compound could not be stronger.

The pool at Ilburu Safari Lodge is a focal point of the courtyard. The contrast between life inside the compound and life outside the compound could not be stronger.

The three of us were sitting at a table, poolside at Ilboru Safari Lodge. Mr Saif had come to review our itinerary, introduce us to our driver, and, of course, carry the news that Vicki would not be molding in her clothes.

As for our itinerary, we would spend the next eight days exploring Tanzania’s famous Northern Circuit. Here lie some of the most famous wild places on the planet: Lake Manyara National Park, Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and the Serengeti National Park. It is big-sky and big-game country on an unrivaled scale.

Mr Saif ironed out the wrinkles upon our arrival.

Mr Saif ironed out the wrinkles upon our arrival.

Mt Saif talked us through our future plans, highlighting a few of the stops along the way. Each name conjured a up something I had read. Hemingway dubbed Lake Manyara “the loveliest . . . in Africa.” Olduvai Gorge is a place of mystery and controversy. The “endless plains” of the Serengeti are home to Safari’s “big five.” Tarangire is birding and elephant country par excellence.

Now that Vicki’s bag had arrived we were ready to take it all in.

Mr Saif’s phone rang. It was a short conversation. “Your bag is here,” he announced. We rose and walked through the lounge to the parking lot. Outside was a middle-aged fellow with a round face, close cropped hair, and big smile.

“This is Mr Nixon. He will be your driver.” We shook hands. “He has more than twenty years of safari experience.” I was impressed. I would become even more impressed in the days to come.

It wasn’t a Land Rover, but this knobby-tyred beast had the look of a rig built for the backcountry.

It wasn’t a Land Rover, but this knobby-tyred beast had the look of a rig built for the backcountry.

Behind him crouched a Toyota Land Cruiser. It bristled with knobby tyres, push bars, snorkel, and antennas. On the doors were the familiar Kandoo Adventure stickers. The only thing that would have delighted me more would have been a Land Rover painted in zebra stripes. Still, it looked pretty solid. And sooner or later I had to admit that this was not really Hatari! and Vicki would probably not be into roping rhinos and stuff like this anyway.

Toyota-in-khaki (hereafter TIK) would be our home with springs for the days to come.

Safari-ready.

Safari-ready.

While we we still talking, the steel gate slid open and a small car entered. The driver pulled up to us and popped open the truck. There was Vicki’s bag!

Vicki excused herself and went back to change. When she reappeared, she looked as safari-ready as Karen Blixen.

We loaded up and waved goodbye to Mr Saif and Ilboru Safari Lodge.

Mr Nixon nosed TIK into the mud of the Arusha street.


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If you are a traveler, church leader, or educator who is interested in visiting Israel-Palestine (or Tanzania!), let me hear from you. I partner with faith-based groups to deliver outdoor academic experiences. Leaders receive the same perks that other agencies offer, at competitive prices and without the self-serving interests.

Right now we are building the passenger roster for an Israel excursion scheduled for March 17-28, 2020. Seats will be open until Thanksgiving. For a list of trips go to the link here or contact me at markziese@gmail.com.