Sites along the way. Image adapted from Google Earth.
The ascent from the fields near Atapuerca isn't long, but it is steep. As we began the climb, it felt like more than just a hike; La Sierra de Atapuerca serves as the final “speed bump” before reaching Spain’s vast central plateau.
Into the Scrub
We moved through a landscape of scrub forest and rocky ridges. Underfoot, small oaks pushed upward, resilient in their quiet battle against deforestation. Looking at the rugged terrain, I couldn't help but wonder: What did this look like in the days of Homo antecessor? (see post here).*
Small oaks pushed upward.
Almost on cue, a deer darted across the trail.
“Look!” Bob cried out.
It was small, stocky, and a dusty grayish-brown. We had just crossed paths with a European roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), the most common cervid in the Mediterranean basin.
“For I shall bring you crimson leaves
And rippling wheat in golden sheaves;
A cache of berries, red and sweet,
And dappled deer on silent feet.”**
Capreolus capreolus, male and female. Image from here (accessed 1/22/2022)
A Biblical Connection?
If the European roe deer is the (pū́gargos)—literally the “white rump”—of classical sources, our sighting may have a biblical connection.*** The Greek translation of the Old Testament considers the pū́gargos among a list of animals dubbed “clean” or kosher for eating.
This one didn’t look so edible to me. He was scrawny and dirty. He was fast though, faster than my hand and camera. How did ancient hunters counter such speed? Stealth? Cooperation? Thrusting spears? Darts in atlatls? Hunting dogs?
To halloo the hounds and chase the dappled deer.****
The less speedy hunters of Atapuerca. Somebody had to stay home and protect the village.
The Summit and the Descent
As we reached the summit of the Sierra de Atapuerca (roughly 3,500 feet), we were met by a tall cruceiro. These stone crosses are iconic landmarks along the Camino Francés, offering both a place for reflection and a marker of progress.
From the top, the view was magnificent. The central plateau stretched out before us, and in the distance, we could just make out the hazy silhouette of Burgos. That was tomorrow's goal.
The cross at the trail summit.
The descent was a scramble over steep scree, followed by a few final miles of walking into Cardeñuela Riopico. Just as we were feeling the weight of the day, a colorful bus caught our eye. We signaled, pulled off the trail, and decided to call it a night.
How could we not stop at an albergue with a double decker bus as a billboard?
A Table for All
We stayed at the Albergue Vía Minera, which remains one of the most memorable hostels of our Spanish pilgrimage. That evening at the communal “pilgrim table,” Bob and I realized we were the only native English speakers in a room full of Spanish, French, German, and Italian voices.
Despite the language barriers, we shared a fine meal, decent wine, and curious conversation. I don’t recall exactly what meat was served, but I know one thing for certain: it wasn't venison.
¡Buen Camino!
We shared a pilgrim meal that evening with our new European friends.
*According to Blondel and Aronson, many tropical species disappeared in the middle Pleistocene. The shifting climate allowed for the “settling in” of modern faunas, including true bison (Bison schoetensacki), reindeer (Rangifer tarandus), red deer (Cervus elaphus), and roe deer (Capreolus). See their Biology and Wildlife of the Mediterranean Region, Oxford, 1999: 43.
A project of interest in the region is Paleolítico Vivo or “Living Paleolithic.” This conservation organization is attempting (among other things) to “rewild” the area of Atapuerca by introducing ancient species such as the wild ox (aurochs), bison, and Przewalski's horse. See their webpage here (accessed 1/22/2022).
**Lauren Willig, from “Garden Intrigue—Miss Gwen” (posted here February 11, 2012).
***The Greek term πύγαργος (pū́gargos), literally “white rump,” is used to describe some kind of ungulate. In the Biblical text, Deut 14:4-5 describes animals that may be eaten by the ancient Israelites: “the ox, the sheep, the goat, the deer, the gazelle, the roebuck, the wild goat, the πύγαργος (pū́gargos), the antelope, and the mountain sheep.” Others believe the pū́gargos of antiquity is the addax. Hebrew source uses יַחְמוּר (yahmur) in Deut 14:5 to describe the roebuck.
Curiously, in 1 Kings 5:3, the more familiar Greek term δορκᾰ́ς (dorkas) for “deer” or “gazelle” is used to translate yahmur. How do we distinguish between pū́gargos and dorkas?
****From Plutarch, On the Intelligence of Animals 1.20. See the link here (accessed 1/23/2022).
This drawing depicts a happy pilgrim on the way to the Albergue vía Minera in Cardeñuela Riopico, Spain. Note the lovely fountain in the yard and the peaceful enclosure of the albergue. I don’t know who the artist was or who produced this, but it was proudly hung on the wall in the hostel.
All the Camino experiences described here took place in the summer of 2018 and were reconstructed for this blog from my notes, photographs, and memories.