Our Un-Romantic Start to the Romantic Danube

Darkness was falling as we hit the Vilshofen exit. We were late.

We veered off the highway as expected, but the tight loop led straight to an underpass with far too little clearance for our bus. The driver slammed on the brakes. Behind us, cars began to stack up—impatient and growing in number.

Through the gap in the concrete, I could see the AmaVerde tied to the pier. She was right there, just beyond our reach.

We arrived late in Vilshofen.

The driver and the guide erupted in a series of curses in their native tongues—he in Hungarian, she in German. In calmer moments, English was their bridge, but stress has a way of returning a person to their roots. She was desperate to catch a train; he just wanted to be done for the day. Instead, his work was just beginning.

With agonizing precision, he had to back the bus out the way we came, threading the needle between idling cars, back around the loop, and onto the highway. Once in the thick of traffic, he executed a three-point turn—an astonishing feat given the circumstances—and pointed our nose in the right direction. From this side, the ramp led directly to the pier, mercifully bypassing the underpass.

We glided to a stop, the doors hissed open, and the guide bolted. She disappeared into the night, still hoping to make her connection. We wouldn't see her again.

Before us, men in hats and lederhosen were quietly clearing away the remains of what must have been a boisterous Bavarian oom-pah oom-pah welcome. We had missed it. One man guzzled the last of the beer straight from a pitcher. The AmaVerde waited beside them, her extended ramp our only greeting.

Up close, I found her handsome in a crafty sort of way. She was Swiss-sturdy and low-slung, designed specifically to duck under low bridges. Two thin decks rode above the waterline while a third sat mostly submerged. She was “lock-worthy”—slim in girth and excelling only in length. Near the door, white lettering announced her capacity: Max 162 passengers.

A few smartly-clad crew members appeared on the ramp, tasked with getting our busload aboard, registered, and to dinner with haste. They worked with impressive efficiency. Vicki and I dumped our gear in the cabin that was to be our new home and hustled toward the dining room.

They say romance should never be rushed. Whatever. Our experience of the “Romantic Danube” had officially begun.

Sunset on the Danube at Vilshofen, Germany. View from our balcony on the AmaVerde.


Reservations are now being received for our April 21-May 1, 2023 excursion to Greece. Bible Land Explorers will follow in Paul’s footsteps in the classical world, with stops at Thessaloniki, Amphipolis, Philippi, Neapoli (Kavala), Meteora, Delphi, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidaurus, and Sparta. Conclude this grand tour in Athens, the classical center of it all. Click here for the brochure. Early bird discounts apply. Direct all questions to BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com