Stacks of chewy bread-loops, known as ka’ak, are sold on the street. These loops are sold with a twist of za’atar (dried thyme), salt, and sometimes a boiled egg. It is a fast-food breakfast, Jerusalem’s equivalent of an Egg McMuffin.
Navigating Jerusalem: Where Ancient Life and Modern Pilgrimage Collide
The challenge of moving 48 souls through the Holy Land is felt most acutely within the limestone walls of Jerusalem’s Old City. Here, the ancient rhythm of resident life collides with the relentless press of the new. Pilgrims and locals alike rush, gawk, worship, and gossip in a swirling current that can overwhelm the uninitiated. There is no tutorial for these streets; one must simply dive in.
Our recent study-tour crew—a blend of two communities from Springfield, Ohio, and Louisville, Kentucky—did exactly that. Unified by the leadership of Pastor Craig Grammer, the group arrived in Tel Aviv not just as tourists, but as a community prepared for the deep end. Craig had cast the vision months in advance; by the time they hit the pavement, they were ready to swim.
My own role was more grounded: to keep the collective “us” together, informed, and alive. To manage a crowd of this scale, I relied on a dedicated team.
Group shot on the top of Mt Arbel.
The Team Behind the Tour: Logistics, Grace, and the Whisper System
Khalil, our driver, was far more than a navigator of narrow streets; he was a master of coordination, ensuring our safety and our schedule remained intact. Then there was Vicki. While her “real job” usually keeps her home, she joined this mission to manage the technical pulse of the group. From mastering the “whisper” communication systems to the quiet distribution of grace and paperwork, her presence was a blessing.
Khalil was one of the finest drivers I’ve ever worked with. Good man! Along with Khalil, our group had the unflinching support of the Jerusalem Center (JCBS) and George Garabedian Tourist Transport (GGC).
Behind us stood the giants of the industry. The George Garabedian Company, a pillar of the region for over 85 years, provided a “family-style” reliability that made the impossible feel easy. Alongside them, the Jerusalem Center for Biblical Studies and Educational Opportunities handled the heavy lifting of international logistics, allowing us to focus on the journey itself.
Vicki in the dining room of the Caesar Hotel in Tiberias. There are many challenges when you travel with us, but starving to death is not one of them!
From Masada to Maqlubeh: Faith and Peacemaking in Central Palestine
Our path wound from the heights of Bethlehem to the shores of the Dead Sea, through the Galilee in Tiberias, and finally to the coast of Netanya. We prayed in the echoing halls of the Nativity and the Holy Sepulchre and scrambled over the sun-bleached ruins of Masada and Capernaum.
Perhaps most moving was our venture off the beaten path into central Palestine. At Jacob’s Well and the ruins of Samaria, we traded the bus for camels and shared a traditional meal of maqlubeh. It was here, amidst the steam of ancient recipes, that the complexities of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and the calling of Christian peacemakers moved from the page to the heart.
Baptism in the Jordan River (Qasr el-Yahud). Photograph by Pat Blandford.
Leading 48 people through the Heartland during high season is a daunting prospect, but my anxieties proved hollow. Between strong leadership, a tireless crew, and a gracious God, we found that a full bus is a small price to pay for a full heart.
Camel at the Roman forum of Samaria. Photograph by Steve Luckenbach.
While I was anxious about leading 48 people through the Heartland in the middle of the high travel season, in the end it was worry about nothing. Strong leadership, able assistants, a solid itinerary, and a gracious God made for more than a full bus, these produced full hearts.
The view from the summit of Mt Arbel is spectacular. The plain of Ginosar and the Sea of Galilee stretches beneath the feet of our pilgrim. Visible are the sites of Capernaum and Magdala. Photograph by Tom Lush.
If you are a traveler, church leader, or educator who is interested in visiting Israel-Palestine (or Tanzania!), let me hear from you. I partner with faith-based groups to deliver outdoor academic experiences. Leaders receive the same perks that other agencies offer, at competitive prices and without the self-serving interests.
Right now we’re building the passenger roster for an Israel excursion scheduled for March 17-28, 2020. Seats will be open until Thanksgiving. For a list of trips go to the link here or contact me at markziese@gmail.com.