Legend has it that Roland died somewhere in this landscape. The view demands more lines from Roland: “Over the peak Lord Olivier now hasted him to go. / Out and across the realm of Spain an eager look he threw. / And he beheld the Paynim (Pagan) host that there together drew. / And from their gold-wrought helmets a blazing light did dance / On shield and broidered hauberk, on pennant and on lance” (laisse 82).
The Rugged Descent into Spain: Roncesvalles and the Pyrenees
The descent into Spain is rugged. The bright pastures of the sommets des pyrénées slip downslope—gradually at first, then furiously and precipitously—until they tumble into dense beech forests. Bob and I did likewise. Spattered by mud, decorated with leaves, and swathed in shadow, we experienced the contrast captured in The Song of Roland:
"High were the peaks about them, and dark the vale and black,
Sombre the rocks around them, and terrible the track."*
Separating Myth from History: The Battle of Roncevaux Pass
The reader of this famous chanson de geste (“song of heroic deeds”) must be cautious with its presentation of the Battle of Roncevaux Pass (AD 778). Bards polished the details for three centuries until they reached a high shine: Christian Basques became Muslims, a Frankish raid became a seven-year war, and numbers grew legs—hundreds of men became hundreds of thousands.
Even after the Chanson de Roland was committed to ink in the 11th century, it continued to shift; seven versions survive today. As Kyle Glenn Cunningham put it: “Roland is an excellent example of how to understand secondary sources effectively; namely, it is a text that better reflects the time period in which it was written rather than the time period in which it is set.”**
Understanding the Song of Roland: A Camino Legend
I processed bits of this epic while walking the Camino Francés. That experience prompts three swipes here: the basic story, the manner of Roland’s death, and the poem's relevance for Bible Land Explorers. I’ll take the first two now and save the third for another day.
Fresco from above the nave of All Saints Church, Claverley, Shropshire, England. The work is believed to date to the 13th c and may depict a scene from The Song of Roland. Source is here (accessed 9/7/2021).
For those unfamiliar with this classic from the back shelf of Western literature, the Song of Roland unfolds in four mirrored scenes. The first and last focus on the treachery and punishment of Ganelon (a name connected to the Italian notion of “despicable fraud”). A Frankish baron, Ganelon betrays Charlemagne’s army to the enemy. Tragically caught in the middle is the rearguard under the command of our dear Roland (Italian: Orlando or “noble”). Eventually, Ganelon gets what he deserved and is drawn and quartered in a satisfying—if not somewhat messy—finale.
The middle scenes mirror each other through two extended battles. In the first, Roland and his men are ambushed near Roncevaux. The knights fight bravely but cannot overcome the odds and are martyred. In the second, Charlemagne exacts grisly vengeance, skewering men like Lil’ Smokies on gameday. Despite the carnage, lovely lines emerge: “How ill-fated thou wert” or “Here they will find us stark and dead smitten.” These are gems for everyday use if you find the right moment.
For a child of the 70s I must confess that reading Roland prompted flashbacks to Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Sick, I know (for the sake of old times and good smiles, try this link).
This set of stained glass windows is found in the Real Colegiata de Santa María in Roncesvalles. It depicts Roland and his men in battle. The work was completed in 1909 by Jose Maumejean. See the full display here (accessed 9/7/2021).
The Death of Roland: The Olifant and the Sword Durendal
Roland’s sword, Durendal, dispatches hordes of heathens to hell.*** But it isn’t daring swordplay that leads to his death. It’s his other prop: the ivory Olifant.
This hunting horn, fashioned from an elephant tusk (or a unicorn horn, depending on the version), is Roland's undoing. When ambushed, Roland is implored to sound the Olifant to signal Charlemagne. He refuses, claiming it would be ignoble, and chooses to fight for God and king until the battle is lost. Finally, the Archbishop-warrior Turpin convinces him to blow the horn—not for rescue, but to ensure their bodies are avenged and buried.
It is his last act. Roland blows the Olifant with such force that his brains leak out his ears and blood sprays from his mouth (see laisse 136 and laisse 170). It’s oddly reminiscent of a Maynard Ferguson concert (for the impoverished souls who don’t know what I’m talking about, try the flashback here). I can only assume Roland’s legacy as a head-exploding horn player is akin to Pheidippides’ legacy among marathon runners: “Hey, here’s a brill idea: let’s sprint until we die!”
Charlemagne hears Olifant from a distance and immediately recognizes the depth of the disaster. He wheels about. But it is too late for Roland and the rearguard. They have all been killed—martyrs glorious—with the blood of infidels on their swords and the praise of God on their lips.
Detail from Simon Marmion’s 15th century work Grandes Chroniques de France. Roland’s body twists under a tree. Beside him is Durendal and Olifant. Image from here.
Arriving at Roncesvalles: The Gateway to the Camino Francés
Bob and I emerged from the forest to find a compound of stone buildings: Roncevaux! Inside sits the 13th-century Colegiata de Santa María, and adjacent to it, a hostel for tired pilgrims. We took our place in line and waited for bunk assignments.
¡Buen Camino!
Bob is alive after a hike best described in the words: “Here they will find us stark and dead smitten.” Welcome, Bob, to Roland’s Roncevaux.
*The Song of Roland (laisse 67). I draw my quotes from Leonard Bacon’s timeless 1914 English translation. An online version is available here. For a full critical introduction to the text, run to your local library and grab Gerard J. Brault’s The Song of Roland: An Analytical Introduction (University Park: Pennsylvania State, 1978).
**See the work here by Kyle Glenn Cunningham, “Historical Perspective and the Song of Roland,” page 1.
***Hidden in the pommel of the indestructible sword Durendal are four relics: a tooth of St Peter, blood from St Basil, hair from St Denis, and a scrap of garment from the Virgin Mary. These make for some powerful chemistry. See laisse 175.
Join Mark and Vicki for a Mediterranean experience May 25-June 5, 2022. We'll be cruising aboard the luxurious Celebrity Infinity. See the link here for details. Onboard lectures will provide focus for the group as we visit the ports of Olympia, Santorini, Ephesus, and Athens among others. Optional add-on visits to Venice or Rome are possible on either end of the trip. Contact me at markziese@gmail.com.