PAMPLONA (Iruñea), July 1 — While most people fall asleep in church by accident, Bob and I found one where sleep is actively encouraged.
Outside and inside our hostel in downtown Pamplona.
Sleeping in a Church: The Albergue de Jesús y María
Constructed by the Jesuits at the end of the 16th century, the Iglesia de Jesús y María now serves as an albergue (hostel) for weary Camino pilgrims. Inside, a small man in glasses stood behind a counter, dutifully stamping our pilgrim passports.
“Welcome,” he said in English, handing back our booklets. I carefully tucked mine back into its Ziploc bag.
The architecture was striking. While the central nave remains a communal space, the side aisles have been transformed into sleeping quarters. Wooden partitions and bunks now line the gaps between ancient columns. We claimed our spots, checked the mattresses for chinches (bedbugs)—a precaution learned from veteran pilgrim Greg (see post here)—and washed up. We were eager to sleep, but not before a walkabout through this historic provençal capital.
Pamplona’s Plaza. Image from here (accessed 10/4/2021).
Exploring Plaza del Castillo: The Heart of Pamplona
Our first stop was the Plaza del Castillo, just a short stroll from the church. The plaza is the “living room”* of the city. Symmetrical yet eclectic, its surrounding buildings represent centuries of changing styles, all united by covered porches and a shared gaze toward the omphalos of Pamplona: the circular bandstand rising from the square’s center.
Bob and I took it all in, wandering the tree-lined perimeter and enjoying the freedom of walking without packs. Oddly enough, other pedestrians were scarce. The Spanish sun drives most folk to the shade in summer. But there was another reason. This was the season of the World Cup and Spain had Russia in the Round of 16. Clusters of people gathered around televisions that hung from poles or walls about the square.
The bandstand in the middle of the square was deserted.
Following Papa to Café Iruña
We followed the edge of the arcade until we found it. Emblazoned on a crisp white awning was the name: Café Iruña. Inside was a magnificent room of gilded timbers, earthy tones, and tiled floors. It retained a perfect 19th-century ambiance, save for the widescreen TV on the wall. Every chair was occupied, most turned toward the screen in “theater mode.” The score was tied; the crowd was tight.
The scene immediately evoked Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises. In what many consider his finest novel, Hemingway describes a group of bohemians swept up in the frenzy of the San Fermín festival. The story was built on his own life; he and his friends frequented this very café to drink, gossip, and prepare for the bulls. He once wrote:
“We ate at tables set out under the arcade... After lunch we went over to the Iruña. It had filled up... There was a close crowded hum that came every day before the bull-fight.”
The score was tied; the crowd was tight in the Café Iruña.
Encountering Ernest Hemingway
I interrupted a waiter who was deeply lost in the “hum” of the television to ask about the object of my search. With an absent-minded wave, he pointed us toward a side door.
The festival of San Fermin, 1954. Photograph from here (accessed 10/6/2021).
Bob and I followed his lead through a short entryway into a narrow, mirrored room. In the center stood a bar of well-polished, reddish-brown wood. The bartender also had his back to us, mesmerized by the match. But leaning against the counter was another figure. He wasn't tense like the soccer fans outside. With one foot on the rail and an elbow nonchalantly propped on the bar, he looked up. His face was lined; his hair was wavy and full. His face revealed neither surprise nor irritation by our sudden interruption; it was more like, “Oh, there you are. I knew you'd come.”**
It was Ernest Hemingway!
¡Buen Camino!
A life-sized statue of Ernest Hemingway stood at the counter in the Iruña.
Bob and Papa share a moment.
*According to the article here, the Plaza del Castillo is commonly referred to “as the ‘living room’ of all the people of Pamplona.”
**As I understand it, the room is often crowded with unsavory tourists, but with the match and all, Bob and I had Ernest to ourselves that afternoon. It was probably a good thing. Despite dominating Russia in every category of play, the match ended in a tie. Then Spain was eliminated in a shootout. That’s a rough World Cup exit.
We have a full slate of trips to the Bible Lands ready to launch in 2022. One departs New York for Israel on March 12 and returns on March 25. This high-energy study tour will move light and fast, so pack your hiking shoes! Walt Harper, professor from Central Christian College of the Bible and Jeff Snell from Johnson University will assist with teaching duties on this one. For more information click here or contact me at markziese@gmail.com.