Areas of Arusha are quite poor and undeveloped. This is an market area known as Nagaratoni. It was a short walk from our destination. Image from here (accessed September 25, 2019).
A Perilous Arrival in Arusha, Tanzania
The driver in the stocking cap chose his route carefully. The sedan was never built for this; time and again, the frame bottomed out with a bone-jarring thud. We crawled forward, the driver stopping and reversing to find a new tack up the “street.” In the beam of the headlights, mounds of gravel, garbage, and debris took on eerie shapes before slipping back into the dusk. I began to doubt we were on a road at all.
The headlights captured mounds gravel, garbage, and building materials. Their eerie shapes were revealed for just a moment before slipping back into the dusk. I began to think that we we not on a road at all but in a construction zone.
This is how Jimmy Hoffa felt on that day in 1975 when they took him for a ride.
Navigating the Slums and Jungles of Tanzania
As the light grew, the true landscape emerged. To our right, the jungle had reclaimed a row of shanties, burying them under a rotting mat of vegetation. The street had dissolved into a track of mud. We were reaching a dead end, and I feared we were, too.
Then, a high concrete wall appeared on our left, punctuated by a black steel gate. We pulled up and stopped. Our driver, who hadn't spoken a word, honked. As the gate slowly creaked open, I thanked the Lord for my life and braced myself for the armed men I was certain were waiting on the other side.
Instead, there was only a small man in a uniform holding a flashlight.
The reception area and restaurant at the Ilburu Safari Lodge.
Finding Sanctuary at Ilburu Safari Lodge
We pulled into the compound of the Ilburu Safari Lodge. The contrast was jarring. Behind us lay a desperate slum; before us stood a brightly painted lodge nestled in manicured grounds where flowers bloomed in every corner.
A lean man in glasses and a scarf stepped forward as we eased out of the car. “Mark and Vicki? Welcome to Tanzania. I’m Mr. Saif.”
He existed!
“I’m so sorry about the trouble this morning,” he said, launching into a dizzying explanation involving car failures and phone glitches. We weren't sure what to believe, but we were too relieved to be alive—and unrobbed—to care.
Preparing for Our Tanzania Safari
Mr. Saif paid the driver and escorted us toward reception. When we mentioned Vicki’s lost bag, he waved away our worry. “Get your rest today. I’ll see you tomorrow morning to meet your safari driver.”
We bought a bottle of water and headed for our room. Our relief wasn't just felt—it was palpable.
If you are a pastor, church leader, or educator, let me hear from you. I partner with faith-based groups to craft and deliver outdoor academic experiences in the lands of the Bible. Leaders receive the same perks that other agencies offer, at competitive prices, and without the self-serving interests that often derail pilgrim priorities. See our list of future trips here.
And by the way, I promise to meet you at the Tel Aviv airport.