Exploring Tanzania

The Bill of the Pied Avocet

A Pied Avocet wading in shallow water in the Ngorongoro Crater, showing its distinct black and white plumage and upturned bill.

The Elegant Scythe: The Precision of the Pied Avocet

I think the most striking feature of the Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) is its long, slender, and distinctly upturned bill. While it might look like an accident, this recurved beak is actually a highly specialized precision tool.

The name of the genus, Recurvirostra, literally translates from Latin as “bent-back bill,” perfectly describing the upward sweep toward the tip. This unique shape is more than just an aesthetic choice; it is specifically adapted for a feeding technique known as scything.

What does scything look like?

Unlike many other waders that peck vertically into mud, the Pied Avocet wades through shallow water and sweeps its slightly open bill from side to side in a rhythmic, scythe-like motion. Here’s what’s amazing:

The bill is lined with sensitive nerve endings, allowing the bird to detect tiny invertebrates like crustaceans, worms, and insect larvae by touch rather than just sight.

The thin, curved design reduces drag as the bird “swishes” through the water, sometimes at a rate of up to 46 sweeps per minute.

Comb-like structures called lamellae inside the bill help filter out food bits from the water and silt as the bird forages.

I photographed this individual utilizing its “scythe” within the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. These migratory birds often winter in Africa, finding the enclosed caldera’s soda water to be the perfect habitat for harvesting insects and crustaceans.

The Pied Avocet scythes the water of Lake Magadi in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater.

Join us in 2027

We are heading back to the savanna from June 3-13, 2027. If you want to photograph amazing species like the Pied Avocet in their natural habitat, email us at BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com for details.

Spotted on the Serengeti: A Rare Moment with a Cheetah Mother and Her Cubs

A Serengeti cheetah sits on her haunches, silhouetted against the dusky light.

A Cheetah sighting

The driver nosed our rig between the other parked vehicles on the dirt road. We scanned the brush.

“What is it?” someone whispered.

“Cheetah,” the driver declared.

Our hearts jumped. A cheetah sighting on the Serengeti is never a guarantee. At first, I looked too far, my eyes searching the distant horizon until a spotter pointed toward a gentle rise much closer than I expected.

There she sat on her haunches, silhouetted against the challenging, golden light of dusk. She, too, was scanning the horizon.

“Look,” someone squealed from the back, “there’s two more!”

Sure enough, two more slender figures rose from a fold in the landscape. I refocused. They were lean, light, and leggy.

“Cubs,” I whispered. “Teenagers.”

As I pulled the frame tighter, the story of their afternoon became clear: their muzzles were stained deep red. I whispered to myself, “They’ve got a kill.”

In cheetah world, survival is a technical masterpiece. Unlike the brute force of a lion or leopard, a cheetah relies on a high-speed chess match—stalking prey, pursuing it at nearly 70 mph, then perfectly timing a trip and tumble. It is exhausting, dangerous work where a single misplaced paw or a bad tackle can mean injury.

For these teenagers, the stakes are life and death. In the Serengeti, only 5% to 10% of cubs reach adulthood; many succumb to starvation or the ruthlessness of competing predators like lions and hyenas. These two were the lucky ones, having nearly survived the most vulnerable months of their education.

The pair sauntered over to their teacher—their mother, the architect of their survival. And as mothers are wont to do, she dutifully began to wash their faces. We sat in hushed silence, watching the rhythmic licking and face rubbing—a tender, domestic moment of family life on the raw African plains.

A tender, domestic moment of family life on the raw African plains.

Join us on a safari expedition!

Dates and itinerary have been confirmed: June 3-13, 2027. This one will be a gem! We’ll be on the backside of the rainy season and rumbling in Land Cruisers across the Serengeti to the Western Corridor. There, we will witness the Grumeti River crossing of the Great Migration. We’ll also visit the slapping waves of Speke Bay on Lake Victoria (the source of the Nile) where we’ll do a little boating and an overnight. Another new piece of the offering for this season is a forest canopy walk in Lake Manyara National Park (home to the climbing lions!). Both the treetop walkway and the Lake Victoria stop promise to be ideal places to observe African bird populations. This is not your typical “tourist travel.” Reserve your seat. Email us at BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com.

The Outlandish Outfit of the Topi

While many antelopes rely on camouflage, the Topi (Damaliscus lunatus) sports one of the most outlandish outfits on the African savanna. Their markings aren't just for show—there are reasons for the design.

A Topi antelope in Tanzania showing flank and leg markings and a black facial mask.

The Blue Jeans and Yellow Socks

The most striking feature of a Topi is the color contrast on its flanks and legs. Some guides refer to them as the “blue jeans antelope” due to the distinct, dark purple-to-black patches on their flanks. This look of denim is complemented by their lower legs, which transition into a yellowish-tan color, often described as wearing “yellow socks” or stockings.

What purpose does this serve? Some have suggested that the markings break up the animal's recognizable body outline. To a predator like a lion or hyena, especially in the shimmering heat of the savanna, the Topi’s silhouette becomes harder to track.

A related option may have to to with maturity and social standing. As the topi matures—particularly in males—the colors become more intense. Such markings may communicate a unique ID signal to the rest of the herd.

A Glossy, Iridescent Sheen

Unlike the matte coats of many herbivores, a Topi’s fur is short, dense, and remarkably glossy. Under the sun, their reddish-brown or "copper" coat can appear almost iridescent, reflecting shades of purple or bronze. This sheen helps them stand out to their own kind while potentially reflecting heat in the open grasslands. It may also work with the body marks to create a “dazzle” effect. A herd of topi may run at speeds up to 50 mph (really amazing!); the moving colors combined with the sheen may make it difficult for a predator to lock on a single individual amid all the “dazzle.”

The Signature “Mask”

Every Topi comes equipped with a built-in dark facial mask. A bold black stripe runs from the forehead down to the muzzle, stopping just before the tan-colored lips. This mask is more than just a pattern; it is a identifier that helps Topis recognize one another from a distance. It may also function like an athlete’s “black eye” smear: the dark fur around the eyes absorbs sunlight and reduces glare. In a Serengeti summer, better vision a good thing!

See a Topi for Yourself

We are returning to the Serengeti during our African Safari scheduled for June 3-13, 2027.

Want to join us? Email BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com for the full itinerary and safari details.

For more on this stunning species, check out our post: The Painted Antelope: Identifying the Topi of the Serengeti.

For more on “disruptive camouflage,” see our post: The Black-bellied Bustard: Master of Grassland Camouflage.

The Price of Preservation: The Serengeti's Complex History

The sun rising on the Serengeti.

The Serengeti Story

The creation of the Serengeti National Park emerged from a complex, often forceful effort to preserve one of Earth's most iconic ecosystems. While the initiative successfully protected vast migrations and diverse wildlife, it simultaneously displaced indigenous communities who had lived in harmony with the land for generations. This history serves as a sharp reminder that modern conservation success often comes at a human cost.

Watch the video:

The Serengeti Story

Why So Fluffy? Understanding the “Rouse” of the Grey Crowned Crane

A Grey Crowned Crane fluffed up (rousing) its grey and white feathers in the Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania.

Why so fluffed?

The Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum) is undeniably the most rakish bird on the savanna. With its slate-grey plumage, bold white-and-red cheek patches, and that iconic golden "crown" of specialized feathers, this bird has every reason to strut.

However, while reviewing my shots from Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater, I came across this fellow looking a bit disheveled. What’s behind the “fluff”?

It’s called rousing

There is a specific term for this behavior: rousing (pronounced row-zing). Nearly all birds—from backyard chickens to majestic eagles—do it. A bird lifts its feathers away from its body, gives them a vigorous shake, and lets them settle back into place. It’s the birdy version of a human giving a involuntary shudder when waking up, cooling off, or settling down.

Why Do cranes Do It?

Rousing serves several vital purposes:

  • Temperature Regulation: Cranes fluff their feathers to trap air, creating an insulating layer to stay warm or allowing air to circulate and cool them down.

  • Grooming & Maintenance: After preening, a crane shakes its fluffed body to realign every feather and shake off dirt or water.

  • Courtship & Connection: Fluffing is a key move in their famous mating dances, used to show off health and vigor to a potential mate.

  • Comfort: Much like a human yawn, a full-body rouse is often a sign the bird is relaxed and content.

  • Threat Display: When facing a rival or predator, fluffing up makes the crane appear larger and more intimidating.

Why was this particular bird rousing? I’m going with the grooming option. Staying as sharp as a Grey Crowned Crane is a full-time vocation!

See a Fluffy Crane for Yourself

We are returning to the Ngorongoro Crater during our African Safari, June 3-13, 2027.

Want to join us? Email BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com for the full itinerary and safari details. For more on this stunning species, check out our post: On Beauty, Responsibility, and the Grey Crowned Crane.

Black Rhinos and Hope: Creation Care in the Crater

A wild black rhino grazing in the Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania, captured during a Bible Land Explorer safari.

Photographically, I know this shot isn’t a masterpiece. But what you’re looking at goes beyond art; it is a glimmer of biological hope.

This is a wild Eastern black rhinoceros (Diceros bicornis michaeli)—sometimes called the “hook-lipped” rhino—grazing on the floor of the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania. This subspecies is at the most aggressive (and dangerous) end of the black rhino family. I captured this one with my Nikon just three weeks ago. Even with a 600mm lens and a bit of digital help, the closing distance was vast—a testament to just how much space these magnificent creatures need to truly thrive.

A Population on the Rise

The story of Ngorongoro’s rhinos is a rare conservation success. After poaching reduced the population to just 12 individuals in the 1990s, intensive monitoring by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority (NCAA) sparked a steady recovery. Current estimates now place the crater's population at approximately 55 to 60 rhinos. For a species considered critically endangered worldwide, that growth is monumental.

Black vs. White Rhino: What’s the Difference?

Despite their names, both species are actually the same steely gray color. The real giveaway is the mouth:

  • White Rhinos: Have a broad, square lip for grazing on grass (the name likely comes from the Afrikaans word wijd, meaning “wide”).

  • Black Rhinos: Possess a pointed or “hooked” lip for browsing on leaves and twigs.

While roughly 15,750 white rhinos survive to the present, only about 6,700 black rhinos remain in the wild. The cost of inaction is bleak: the Western black rhino was declared extinct in 2011 and the Northern white rhino is now functionally extinct (only two females remain).

The Natural Fortress

The Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania is a unique sanctuary. Its 2,000-foot-high caldera walls create a natural fortress, making anti-poaching efforts more effective than in wide-open reserves. It remains one of the few places on Earth where you can witness the Big Five—rhino, lion, leopard, elephant, and buffalo—all in a single day.

The Original Mandate

Why should we be concerned about a distant rhino? Because Creation Care teaches us that every creature exists to proclaim the glory of God (Psalm 19:1).

When God declared creation as “very good,” He gave these animals intrinsic value beyond their “use” to humans. To lose the black rhino is to lose a unique testimony of the Creator’s creativity. Our original mandate (Genesis 1:28) wasn’t a license to consume, but a call to stewardship. The bounce-back of the Ngorongoro rhinos isn't just an ecological win; it’s a fulfillment of our role as caretakers of the earth.

Join Us in 2027: No Promises, Just Possibilities

We are returning to the Ngorongoro Crater as part of our African Safari, June 3-13, 2027.

While I can’t promise you’ll see three black rhinos like we did this year, the possibility is real as this glimmer of hope continues to grow.

Witness this for yourself? Email us at BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com for full safari details and itinerary info.

Since we are celebrating, here are two more Black rhinos (and some assorted birds and a wildebeest).

*Find the Black Rhino entry here on The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.


Serengeti or Bust: Taking the Scenic Route

Team photo: Celebrating our arrival at the stunning green plains of the Eastern Serengeti after a rugged drive through the highlands of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Note the “endless plain” beyond.

Getting to the Serengeti is an adventure in itself. You have two choices: a quick flight or a long, bumpy drive. Naturally, our rugged group chose the scenic route through the Tanzanian highlands.

The journey was worth every jolt. We crested the 7,200-foot rim of the Ngorongoro Crater before descending through the scrub and acacia “badlands” of the Olduvai Gorge region. Finally, the undulating hills gave way to the iconic, endless green plains of the Eastern Serengeti. To celebrate the view (and our first glimpse of the Great Migration herds) we just had to stop for a group photo. Great work, team!

The Shaggy Guardian of Tarangire: Spotting the Waterbuck

A waterbuck lurks in vegetation near the Tarangire River, Tanzania.

The antelope who loves water

While Tarangire National Park is world-famous for its ancient baobabs and massive elephant herds, one of its most regal permanent residents is the Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus).

Often found grazing along the lush banks of the Tarangire River, these robust antelopes are impossible to miss. They are easily identified by their shaggy, grayish-brown coats and a curious white ring on their rump—humorously known as "nature’s target" or the "painted toilet seat" mark.

The River’s Constant Companion

Unlike the migratory wildebeest or zebras that follow the rains, waterbucks are sedentary and highly water-dependent. In Tarangire, they rarely stray far from permanent water sources, needing to drink multiple times a day. They also use the water for more than just hydration; when threatened by land-based predators like lions or hyenas, a waterbuck’s first instinct is to plunge into the deep to outmaneuver its pursuers.

Join Us on a Safari Expedition!

If you want to see these incredible creatures—and so much more—up close, our next big adventure is now on the calendar.

Dates & Itinerary Confirmed: June 3–13, 2027

This expedition is going to be a true gem. We’ll be traveling on the "backside" of the rainy season, rumbling in Land Cruisers across the Serengeti toward the Western Corridor. Our goal? To witness the legendary Grumeti River crossing of the Great Migration.

This year, we’re adding some incredible new experiences to the journey:

  • Lake Victoria (Speke Bay): We’ll visit the source of the Nile to enjoy a boat excursion and an overnight stay by the slapping waves.

  • Lake Manyara Treetop Walkway: We’re heading into the forest canopy for a bird’s-eye view of the home of the famous tree-climbing lions.

Both the forest canopy walk and our time at Lake Victoria promise to be spectacular opportunities for birdwatching and photography. This is not your typical “tourist travel”—it’s an immersive exploration of Creation!

Reserve Your Seat

Registration will begin soon, and space is limited. To get on the list or ask questions, email us at BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com. I can’t wait to see you in the bush!

To learn more about the waterbuck, see our post at The Smelly Waterbuck: Africa’s Natural Bug Repellent.

The Call of the White-bellied Bustard: A Romancer in Tarangire

Male White-bellied Bustard showing blue-grey neck and pinkish bill in Tarangire National Park.

the Call of the white-bellied Bustard

"Ah-nghaa-nghaa!" That nasally croak belongs to the White-bellied bustard (Eupodotis senegalensis). While these leggy land birds can be elusive, they are relatively common sight in the grasslands of Northern Tanzania.

I recently photographed this male in Tarangire National Park.

If you're trying to distinguish between a White-bellied and a Black-bellied bustard, look for these distinctive marks of the White belly species (beyond the obvious belly coloration):

  • The Neck: A vibrant blue-grey color.

  • The Bill: A unique pinkish-red base.

These birds are typically solitary or travel in small family groups. This particular male was probably making all the fuss for a nearby female (pictured below). Bustards are well-known for their elaborate courtship displays. As is common with our feathered friends, the female is much more subdued in color and demeanor.

Want to learn more about African Bustards?

  • All bustards are all members of the Otididae family. There are 26 species within this group.

  • The first-century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder called bustards avis tarda, or “slow birds.”*

  • Compare this species with the Black-bellied bustard. See our post here.

  • See the world’s heaviest flying bird, the Kori bustard. See our post here.

Join us on a safari expedition!

Dates and itinerary have been confirmed: June 3-13, 2027. This one will be a gem! We’ll be on the backside of the rainy season and rumbling in Land Cruisers across the Serengeti to the Western Corridor. There, we will witness the Grumeti River crossing of the Great Migration. We’ll also visit the slapping waves of Speke Bay on Lake Victoria (the source of the Nile) where we’ll do a little boating and an overnight. Another new piece of the offering for this season is a forest canopy walk in Lake Manyara National Park (home to the climbing lions!). Both the treetop walkway and the Lake Victoria stop promise to be ideal places to observe African bird populations. I’m excited! This is not your typical “tourist travel.” Reserve your seat. Registration will begin soon. Email us at BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com.

This female was near the male pictured above.

*Don’t eat a bustard, suggests Pliny, “because when the marrow is drained out of their bones a disgusting smell at once follows” (!). See Pliny Natural History III Libri VIII-XI. The Loeb Classical Library. Translated by Rachham, H. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press. 1967. pp. 328–329.

A Roosting Red-necked Spur Fowl

This red-necked spurfowl is still roosting in the morning hours in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

Slow starter in the morning

The red-necked spurfowl (or red-necked francolin) is a shy, pheasant-like bird found throughout sub-Saharan Africa. While they spend most of their waking hours forging on the ground, they will flee to a tree if threatened or retire to a branch at dusk to sleep.

While these birds are incredibly wary, I seem to have caught this fellow before he was ready to go. We were on a morning game drive on the edge of a woodland in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

The Secret of the Spurs

If you look closely at his legs, you’ll notice the feature that gives this species its name. Male spur fowl typically boast one or two long, sharp spurs on each leg. These aren't just for show; they are vital tools for:

  • Defending Territory: Keeping rivals away from prime foraging spots.

  • Courtship Battles: Competing for mates during the breeding season.

Join us in Africa

Reserve your seat now for our June 3 - 13, 2027 safari. We’ll be back on the northern circuit hunting birds and big mammals. Details TBA. Email to get on the list and be the first to know when registration begins.

All Antelopes Great and Small: From the Giant Eland to Kirk’s Dik-Dik

A Tanzanian Spectrum

When you pack a copy of All Creatures Great and Small for an African safari, the title takes on a literal—and local—meaning. In the vast plains of Tanzania, “all creatures” can quickly become “all antelopes.”

While scientists often debate the exact definition of an antelope, most travelers recognize them by their shared traits: they are elegant, hooved ruminants of the Bovidae family. Unlike deer, their horns are permanent fixtures, never shed. But beyond those basics, the sheer variety in scale is staggering.

The face of a female impala (Aepyceros melampus).

The Heavyweight: The Giant Eland

At the “Great” end of the spectrum is the Giant Eland (Taurotragus derbianus). This isn’t just an antelope; it’s a powerhouse. Standing up to six feet at the shoulder and weighing over 2,000 pounds, this spiral-horned titan is larger than most prize bulls.

Despite its massive size, the Eland remains surprisingly agile, capable of leaping over obstacles with a grace that defies its weight.

  • Where to see them: Look for them in the south and central Serengeti or roaming the floor of the Ngorongoro Crater. They prefer open spaces and short grass plains where they can keep an eye out for predators.

Giant Eland with zebra (for scale).

The Lightweight: Kirk’s Dik-dik

On the “Small” end of the spectrum is Kirk’s Dik-dik (Madoqua kirkii). These tiny dwellers of the brush are the daintiest members of the family. Standing a mere 12 to 16 inches tall, a full-grown dik-dik weighs just 7 to 13 pounds—roughly the size of a housecat.

They are masters of hide-and-seek, using their petite frames and enormous eyes to disappear into low-lying thickets at the first sign of trouble.

  • Where to see them: You might spot them in the scrub forests of the Serengeti, but for the best sightings, head to the undulating folds of Tarangire National Park, where they are abundant.

We spotted this shy dik-dik on our first game drive of the year in Tarangire.

A Land of Contrasts

From the thundering presence of the Eland to the delicate, whistling footsteps of the Dik-dik, Tanzania’s antelopes prove that beauty truly does come in every size. Whether you're scanning the horizon for giants or peering into the bushes for miniatures, a Tanzanian safari offers a front-row seat to the diverse family tree of Creation.

Join us on a Tanzanian safari, June 3 - 13, 2027. Email us at BibleLandExplorer@gmail.com to secure your seat.

The Southern Ground Hornbill: Africa’s Real “Thunderbird”

Southern Ground Hornbills in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

sounds like thunder

The Southern Ground Hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri) is a creature of legend, standing as the largest and most striking species of hornbill in the world. Often referred to as the “Thunderbird” in various African cultures, this turkey-sized bird is known for its deep, booming call that sounds like distant thunder—a signal many believe to signal the arrival of the first summer rains. With their jet-black plumage, vivid red throat wattles, and remarkably long eyelashes, these "Feathered Reapers" are more than just a visual spectacle; they are elite predators of the savanna.

Three other tidbits make this bird interesting.

Southern Ground Hornbill Lifespan and Facts

While most birds have a short lifespan of two to five years, some species (particularly big seabirds and parrots) can live for fifty years or more. Ground hornbills fall into the latter group, with noted examples that have lived up to 70 years in captivity.

Do birds have eyelashes? A Unique feature of the Southern Ground Hornbill

Ground hornbills are one of very few birds that have eyelashes. It is believed that these modified feathers are helpful for keeping out dust as they forage for reptiles, frogs, insects, and small mammals on the ground. Here’s a second photo of the same pair (that I probably blew up larger than I should have). Note the visible eyelashes on the bird on the right.

Look closely at the bird on the right. Can you spot his eyelashes?

The southern Ground hornbill is vulnerable

Globally, this African bird is classed as vulnerable due to habitat loss, human persecution, and slow reproduction rates. Within South Africa itself, it is considered endangered.

Members of this group reach sexual maturity after six or seven years, but due to siblicide, raise only one chick in a breeding cycle that can take as long as three years.

I caught a view of these two birds perched on a dead tree in the Tarangire National Park in Tanzania.

Compare the Southern Ground Hornbill with the Red-billed Hornbill. See our post, on the Real-Life Zazu.

A iconic baobab tree stands as a dry-season sentinel in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

Witness the thunder in Tanzania!. Join us on an African safari June 3-13, 2027 as we hunt the world's largest hornbill and other fabulous creatures. Find a complete list of travel opportunities with Bible Land Explorer here.

You can also learn more about conservation efforts and the Southern Ground Hornbill at the Mabula Ground Hornbill Project (link here).

Spotting the Little Bee-eater in Tarangire: Birding hints

Little Bee-eater perched on a low acacia branch in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

Keep your eyes low when searching for the Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus) in the Tarangire National Park. Unlike their cousins who prefer high perches, these specialists stay close to the earth. You'll find them balanced on thorn shrubs or blades of grass just a few feet up, perfectly positioned to snatch insects off the ground.

For more on the Little Bee-eater, see our post, The Little Bee-eater: East Africa’s Most Dazzling Safari Bird or Little Bee-eater Eating a Little Bee.

New Life in the Serengeti: Witnessing a Thomson’s Gazelle’s First Steps

Newborn Thomson's gazelle fawn standing for the first time in the Serengeti grass.

Saw this little one take his first wobbly steps. His mum nosed him to the right place. He still needs a little clean up. Welcome to our world!

While the fawn of a Thomson's Gazelle can run within hours of being born, they are “hiders” for the first one or two weeks, preferring to remain motionless in the grass to elude predators. They rise only to nurse.

It's birthing season in the Serengeti!

For more on Thomson’s Gazelle, see our post here.

Sunset Cruise off the Coast of Stone Town, Zanzibar

A traditional wooden Dhow in the Zanzibar Channel, between the Zanzibar archipelago and mainland Tanzania.

The golden hour in Zanzibar hits differently, especially when you’re watching it from the deck of a wooden dhow. If you’re looking for good wrap up for day of exploring Stone Town’s winding alleys, a sunset cruise to Prison Island may be the perfect escape.

Our “sunset cruise” team in the Stone Town harbor.

The Journey: Setting Sail from the Old Fort

Our adventure began in the afternoon at the Stone Town waterfront. We scampered over the Dhow’s stern from the sandy beach near the House of Wonders and the Sultan’s Palace. After a mighty pushoff, the engine was fired up and we gained views to the “Spice Islands” that can't be captured from the shore.

This coral stone structure on Prison Island was once used to house yellow-fever victims. Today is it a relaxing tourist destination.

A Stop at Prison Island

We headed for Changuu Island (better known as Prison Island). While the name sounds heavy, the vibe is anything but. There, we

  • Met the residents: The island is home to Giant Aldabra tortoises, some of which are over 150 years old.

  • Toured the colonal-era structures: several buildings still stand, including the structure that gave the island it’s name: the prison. However, it was never used for criminals, but instead, as a quarantine for yellow-fever victims. Today, it houses a poster presentation of the history of the island.

  • Enjoyed the historical narratives and local stories of Zuwena Sharif, a Zanzibar guide that has worked with us for two seasons now. She’s fantastic!

The only permanant residents of Prison Island are Giant Aldabra tortoises. That’s Zuwena on the left, our local guide and friend.

The Main Event: The Swahili Sunset

After our island visit, we slowly cruised back between sand bars and rock reefs to Stone Town. As the sun set, we took in the views, some tropical bites and local music.

  • Tropical Bites: Think vegetable samosas, grilled cassava, and fresh tropical fruit.

  • Local Music: Two live Taarab musicians, charmed us with traditional Swahili melodies on violin and drum that harmonized perfectly with the sound of the lapping waves.

I can confidently say that the sunset cruise was the highlight of our Stone Town visit. Have a look.

Watch the video to share the experience:

Click the photo below, “Sunset Cruise in Zanzibar.”

Click this image to access the video.

Livingstone’s House: Zanzibar’s Historic Gateway to Africa

Livingstone's House in Zanzibar, a historic 19th-century building used by European explorers.

A Symbol of Exploration and Empire

Livingstone’s House stands as a silent sentinel in Zanzibar, a powerful symbol of the era of exploration and empire. This historic building, once a base for legendary pioneers like David Livingstone, serves as a bridge to the 19th century. It remains a poignant reminder of a time when the spice-scented islands of Zanzibar introduced all of East Africa.

Watch the video:

Click the picture, “Livingstone’s House in Zanzibar,” below.

Stone Town Views: The Architectural Heart of Zanzibar’s Unguja

Rooftop view of Stone Town’s skyline from Swahili House, featuring historic crenellated parapets and coral ragstone structures.

Stone Town is the beating heart of Unguja, the principal island of the Zanzibar archipelago. It is a maze of coral ragstone, crumbling cement, mangrove timbers, and corrugated steel. Some 16,000 people call it home, although many more live in the surrounding area on the island.

Structures are a mashup of Swahili, Indian, Arab, and European styles.

I shot this view from the roof of our lodging, the Swahili House, a 19th c Indian merchantmen’s home. Note the crenellated parapets lining the top of the wall. While they look like a defensive feature, they are actually designed to give a little privacy to residents who uses the flat roof as living space.

Hildebrandt’s Starling: The Colorful African Cousin of the Common Starling

Hildebrandt’s Starling with orange eyes and iridescent blue feathers in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.

Meeting the Hildebrandt’s Starling: An Uncommon African Beauty

Sometimes a change in geography will change your perspective on a “pest.” Moving from the muted, iridescent black of the North American starling to the vivid burnt-orange and iridescent blues of Hildebrandt’s Starling is quite the visual upgrade!

Where to Find Hildebrandt’s Starling

This lovely avian (Lamprotornis hildebrandti) is found only in the the modern countries of Kenya and Tanzania. While some call it uncommon, the IUCN considers the population stable and of “Least Concern.” I spotted the one pictured above loitering in a picnic park in the central Serengeti.

This starling is a medium sized bird (about 7 inches in length). It sports a purple-blue head and wings. Chest, belly, and—most strikingly—its eyes, are orange.

History and Habitat

Hildebrandt’s starling is named after Johann Maria Hildebrandt, an east African explorer, naturalist, and collector of the 19th century. He was the first to identify this species, often found in woodlands and savannahs between 1,600 and 7,200 ft.

This colorful forager eats insects and fruit and often feeds on the ground. This one was watching for picnic crumbs.

Hildebrandt’s vs. Superb Starling: How to Tell Them Apart

Hildebrandt’s starling should not be confused with the Superb starling, though they may be confused at a glance.

How to distinguish a Hildebrandt’s from a Superb Starling:

  • Eye Color: Hildebrandt’s has striking orange eyes, whereas the Superb has bright white eyes.

  • Chest Marking: The Superb starling features a distinct white breast band; the Hildebrandt’s chest is solid orange-buff.

  • Plumage: Hildebrandt’s typically displays a more uniform, deep iridescent blue-purple on the upperparts.

Compare them yourself by checking our posts on the Superb starling, Why the Superb Starling is Superb and The Magnificent Colors of the Superb Starling.

See Hildebrandt’s starling for yourself

If birds are of interest to you, East Africa needs to be on your bucket list. Email us here for details about our next Tanzania safari, slated for June 3 - 13, 2027.