Arusha

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Hemingway’s "Something Wonderful": Leaving Arusha for the Wild

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Hemingway’s "Something Wonderful": Leaving Arusha for the Wild

“Something, or something awful or something wonderful was certain to happen on every day in this part of Africa. Every morning when you woke it was as exciting as though you were going to compete in a downhill ski race or drive a bobsled on a fast run. Something, you knew, would happen, and probably before eleven o’clock.”

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Mud, Miracles, and Mr. Nixon: Our Safari Begins

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Mud, Miracles, and Mr. Nixon: Our Safari Begins

The three of us were sitting at a table, poolside at Ilboru Safari Lodge. Mr Saif had come to review our itinerary, introduce us to our driver, and, of course, carry the news that Vicki would not be molding in her clothes.

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And there I was when I woke up (part 1)

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And there I was when I woke up (part 1)

This post continues the narrative of our recent safari experience in Africa. But it also serves as the first of a series. “And there I was when I woke up” will relate some memorable overnights in places around the world.

Taken for a Ride: A High-Stakes Arrival at Ilboru Safari Lodge

Taken for a Ride: A High-Stakes Arrival at Ilboru Safari Lodge

The driver in the stocking cap chose his route carefully. The sedan was not built for this kind of terrain. Time and time again we felt the thud of the frame bottoming out. The driver stopped, started, reversed course, chose a new tack and continued up the so-called street.

Into the African Night: A Leap of Faith at Kilimanjaro Airport

Into the African Night: A Leap of Faith at Kilimanjaro Airport

I hoped it was Arusha when we slipped in. It was hard to know in the dark. The tinting film stuck to the “taxi” windows, bubbled and peeling, made it even more disorienting. There were few working streetlights; those that did work revealed a shantytown in eerie hue. The driver, grimfaced under a stocking cap, looked straight ahead and never spoke a word. Vicki was unnerved.

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PaperGate

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PaperGate

I dangled out the bus window and sniffed the air. It was damp, earthy, and green. Inside the bus were nine other Kilimanjaro trekkers (also somewhat damp, earthy, and green!), four guides, a handful of porters, and many rucksacks.