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On dappled deer

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On dappled deer

A deer darted across the trail. It was small, stocky, and grayish-brown in color. It belonged to the family of European roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), the most common cervid in the Mediterranean basin.

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Atapuerca, Man

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Atapuerca, Man

The importance of Atapuerca goes beyond its medieval moment. Along a ridge known as the Sierra de Atapuerca, archaeologists unearthed early evidence of humankind. These extraordinary finds put this site on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

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Over the montañas and thru the wood

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Over the montañas and thru the wood

It was a coffee-less trek through ten miles of oak, pine, mud, and flies. Pine pollen kicked Bob’s allergies in the head. My need for morning caffeine kicked me into a headache.

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The good, the bad, and the ugly

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The good, the bad, and the ugly

The three of us sat down on a bench beside the trail. As we munched bread and cheeses, another solo traveler approached. He was a lean, muscley man with no shirt. His skin was tanned from the sun and covered in tattoos and maybe a few scars.

“Gooddaye,” he nodded. He had a Welsh accent.

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James goes West

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James goes West

We know that James was beheaded in Jerusalem (See Acts 12:1-2). It makes sense that he would have been buried in the place where he was killed. Who would go the trouble to move a dead body? Especially a messy one.

Ah, but this where it gets interesting.

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The grape farmer's story

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The grape farmer's story

"Do you know the story of the Camino?" His English was stained but clear enough. Bob and I welcomed the company of the grape farmer and the conversation that followed.

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Old world tortillas

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Old world tortillas

Bob returned and plopped down on the bench. In his hands were two packages of aluminum foil.

“Check this out! His eyes were bright.

We unwrapped the silver treasures. They were warm and smelled wonderful.

“Tortilla de patatas,” Bob announced with flair.

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A visit to the hospital

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A visit to the hospital

The complex was built by the Knights Hospitallers. Even the place name was evocative. San Juan de Acre was the name given by Spanish-speaking Christians to coastal Acre, the last Crusader stronghold in the Holy Land.

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A sturdy walking stick

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A sturdy walking stick

He was robust and sported a beard that would have made Gandalf proud. Beside his folding chair was a table. On the table were fruits, Camino paraphernalia, and a gourd for collecting donations. Nearby was an assortment of walking sticks.

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There's a Mike in Logroño

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There's a Mike in Logroño

Bob and I walked into Logroño, a bustling city on the banks of Río Ebro. Wheels screeched. Music blared. People hollered. Buildings of steel and glass rubbed against their stone counterparts. It was a mix of the modern and the medieval, a blend of Spain’s yesterday and today.

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A significant mark

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The first 100 miles of the Camino were in the rearview mirror.

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What happened to James the Great

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The death of James the Great is described in the NT. Outside the NT, however, his story lives on. Part of that story is dedicated to an epic journey, and part of that story is dedicated to a post-death appearance. Both of these accounts teeter wildly into the area of myth but never say that to a Spaniard. It may cost you an eye.

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Sipping from fountains

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The water system in Spain is a matter of civic pride. Not only are the public fountains 99.5% safe,* they are also creative and ancient and available in most villages along the Camino Francés. They also address dehydration issues, which the Spanish understand better than most.

Ribbons of water and rock

Ribbons of water and rock

We crossed the Arga on the way out of Puente la Reina. It would be the last time.

I pulled down my sunglasses and hung over the stone rail. My glasses dangled from a string around my neck. The flow below, like us, had run off the Pyrénées. Unlike us, its journey would end in the Mediterranean.

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Forgiveness ridge

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We reached the summit of Alto del Perdón. It was a good moment to remember God's grace.