Tanzania

The Price of Preservation: The Serengeti's Complex History

The sun rising on the Serengeti.

The Serengeti Story

The creation of the Serengeti National Park emerged from a complex, often forceful effort to preserve one of Earth's most iconic ecosystems. While the initiative successfully protected vast migrations and diverse wildlife, it simultaneously displaced indigenous communities who had lived in harmony with the land for generations. This history serves as a sharp reminder that modern conservation success often comes at a human cost.

Watch the video:

The Serengeti Story

Sunset Cruise off the Coast of Stone Town, Zanzibar

A traditional wooden Dhow in the Zanzibar Channel, between the Zanzibar archipelago and mainland Tanzania.

The golden hour in Zanzibar hits differently, especially when you’re watching it from the deck of a wooden dhow. If you’re looking for good wrap up for day of exploring Stone Town’s winding alleys, a sunset cruise to Prison Island may be the perfect escape.

Our “sunset cruise” team in the Stone Town harbor.

The Journey: Setting Sail from the Old Fort

Our adventure began in the afternoon at the Stone Town waterfront. We scampered over the Dhow’s stern from the sandy beach near the House of Wonders and the Sultan’s Palace. After a mighty pushoff, the engine was fired up and we gained views to the “Spice Islands” that can't be captured from the shore.

This coral stone structure on Prison Island was once used to house yellow-fever victims. Today is it a relaxing tourist destination.

A Stop at Prison Island

We headed for Changuu Island (better known as Prison Island). While the name sounds heavy, the vibe is anything but. There, we

  • Met the residents: The island is home to Giant Aldabra tortoises, some of which are over 150 years old.

  • Toured the colonal-era structures: several buildings still stand, including the structure that gave the island it’s name: the prison. However, it was never used for criminals, but instead, as a quarantine for yellow-fever victims. Today, it houses a poster presentation of the history of the island.

  • Enjoyed the historical narratives and local stories of Zuwena Sharif, a Zanzibar guide that has worked with us for two seasons now. She’s fantastic!

The only permanant residents of Prison Island are Giant Aldabra tortoises. That’s Zuwena on the left, our local guide and friend.

The Main Event: The Swahili Sunset

After our island visit, we slowly cruised back between sand bars and rock reefs to Stone Town. As the sun set, we took in the views, some tropical bites and local music.

  • Tropical Bites: Think vegetable samosas, grilled cassava, and fresh tropical fruit.

  • Local Music: Two live Taarab musicians, charmed us with traditional Swahili melodies on violin and drum that harmonized perfectly with the sound of the lapping waves.

I can confidently say that the sunset cruise was the highlight of our Stone Town visit. Have a look.

Watch the video to share the experience:

Click the photo below, “Sunset Cruise in Zanzibar.”

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Livingstone’s House: Zanzibar’s Historic Gateway to Africa

Livingstone's House in Zanzibar, a historic 19th-century building used by European explorers.

A Symbol of Exploration and Empire

Livingstone’s House stands as a silent sentinel in Zanzibar, a powerful symbol of the era of exploration and empire. This historic building, once a base for legendary pioneers like David Livingstone, serves as a bridge to the 19th century. It remains a poignant reminder of a time when the spice-scented islands of Zanzibar introduced all of East Africa.

Watch the video:

Click the picture, “Livingstone’s House in Zanzibar,” below.

Hildebrandt’s Starling: The Colorful African Cousin of the Common Starling

Hildebrandt’s Starling with orange eyes and iridescent blue feathers in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.

Meeting the Hildebrandt’s Starling: An Uncommon African Beauty

Sometimes a change in geography will change your perspective on a “pest.” Moving from the muted, iridescent black of the North American starling to the vivid burnt-orange and iridescent blues of Hildebrandt’s Starling is quite the visual upgrade!

Where to Find Hildebrandt’s Starling

This lovely avian (Lamprotornis hildebrandti) is found only in the the modern countries of Kenya and Tanzania. While some call it uncommon, the IUCN considers the population stable and of “Least Concern.” I spotted the one pictured above loitering in a picnic park in the central Serengeti.

This starling is a medium sized bird (about 7 inches in length). It sports a purple-blue head and wings. Chest, belly, and—most strikingly—its eyes, are orange.

History and Habitat

Hildebrandt’s starling is named after Johann Maria Hildebrandt, an east African explorer, naturalist, and collector of the 19th century. He was the first to identify this species, often found in woodlands and savannahs between 1,600 and 7,200 ft.

This colorful forager eats insects and fruit and often feeds on the ground. This one was watching for picnic crumbs.

Hildebrandt’s vs. Superb Starling: How to Tell Them Apart

Hildebrandt’s starling should not be confused with the Superb starling, though they may be confused at a glance.

How to distinguish a Hildebrandt’s from a Superb Starling:

  • Eye Color: Hildebrandt’s has striking orange eyes, whereas the Superb has bright white eyes.

  • Chest Marking: The Superb starling features a distinct white breast band; the Hildebrandt’s chest is solid orange-buff.

  • Plumage: Hildebrandt’s typically displays a more uniform, deep iridescent blue-purple on the upperparts.

Compare them yourself by checking our posts on the Superb starling, Why the Superb Starling is Superb and The Magnificent Colors of the Superb Starling.

See Hildebrandt’s starling for yourself

If birds are of interest to you, East Africa needs to be on your bucket list. Email us here for details about our next Tanzania safari, slated for June 3 - 13, 2027.

Why does the Stork Lack a Feathered Face?

Close-up of a Yellow-billed stork in Tanzania showing its red facial skin and specialized yellow bill.

Designed for the Wild: The Secrets of the Yellow-Billed Stork

Have you ever wondered why some birds have featherless skin around their faces? This striking feature in the Yellow-billed stork (Mycteria ibis) is a tutorial in functional design, serving three critical purposes:

  1. Hygiene: Bare skin is far easier to keep clean for wader-hunters and carrion-eaters. For a bird frequently probing muddy wetlands, avoiding matted feathers is a vital health advantage.

  2. Communication: During the breeding season, the stork undergoes a dramatic transformation. Its facial skin deepens to a rich red, the yellow bill intensifies in color, the legs turn bright pink, and even the feathers take on a subtle rosy tinge.

  3. Thermoregulation: Featherless skin helps dissipate heat. While perhaps less significant on a small face, this heat-dumping strategy is a well-documented factor in the bare skin of their long legs.

All in all, it is a brilliant design that allows this bird to thrive in the heat of the East African savannah.

Spot the Yellow-Billed Stork in Tanzania

I photographed this vibrant specimen in Tanzania, where they are a staple of the local wetlands. If you want to witness the "pinkish tinge" and brilliant red faces of these birds for yourself, we invite you to join us on the trail.

  • 2026 Safari: Our current schedule is fully booked, but we are maintaining a waitlist.

  • 2027 Expeditions: We are officially accepting reservations for a 2027 Tanzania Safari. Email us here.

And of course, if you want to read more about the Yellow-billed stork, check out our posts on The Facultative Nomad: Birdwatching in Tanzania and Yellow-billed Storks: Falsetto Screamers.

Tanzania’s Great Migration: The Mara River Crossing

Large herd of wildebeest and zebra gathering at the edge of the Mara River during the Great Migration.

The Greatest Show on Earth: Witnessing the Great Migration

There is no sound quite like it—the thunder of over two million hooves hitting the dust-baked earth of East Africa.

We recently stood on the banks of the Mara River, the natural border between Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s Maasai Mara, to witness the Great Migration. Known as the largest mass movement of land mammals on the planet, this isn't just a trek; it’s a high-stakes drama of survival, instinct, and raw power.

The Chaos of the Mara River Crossing

The herds of wildebeest and zebra gather by the thousands at the river’s edge. There is a palpable tension in the air as they wait for one brave leader to take the plunge. When they finally go, it’s a spectacle of:

  • Adrenaline: Watching thousands of animals navigate steep cliffs and "slapping waves."

  • Nature’s Gauntlet: The Mara River is home to some of Africa’s largest Nile crocodiles, waiting for the crossing to begin.

  • The Symbiosis: Notice how the zebras and wildebeests travel together; zebras have excellent memory for the migration route, while wildebeests can scent water from miles away.

A massive herd of blue wildebeest and zebras charge up and out the Mara River during the Great Migration.

North for Feeding, South for Birthing

The Great Migration is a relentless circular journey of about 1,200 miles. The herd follows the rains in a constant search for greener pastures:

  • The North (Feeding & Breeding): During the winter months, the herd pushes north into the Maasai Mara to graze and breed.

  • The South (Birthing): In the summer, the rhythm shifts as they move south into the Serengeti for the calving season.

At either end of the calendar, it is a spectacle to behold. In 2024 and 2025, we had the incredible opportunity—as the photo above demonstrates—to witness the intensity of the Mara River crossing. Looking ahead, we anticipate arriving in 2026 specifically for the birthing season (stay tuned for future posts on that incredible sight!), intense for a different set of reasons.

Join Us on Safari!

We don't just want to tell you about it; we want you to see it for yourself. The sight of the herd stretching across horizon is a soul-stirring experience that stays with you forever.

Ready to check the Serengeti off your bucket list?

We are currently making plans to witness the Great Migration again in June, 2027, and we’d love for you to join our caravan. Email us here to get the first opportunity at seats when registration opens!

The Great Pursuit: Tracking the Serengeti’s Massive Herds

The air in the Serengeti changes when they arrive. You hear it before you see it—a low, rhythmic rumble that vibrates through the floor of the Jeep. We found ourselves in the thick of the world’s greatest spectacle. The stream of wildebeests and zebras flowed north toward the Kenyan border. We followed it. Check out the video below.